The following story appeared in the Dec. 14, 1995, edition of The Daily Yomiuri.

HOKKAIDO--Skiing in Japan can be enjoyable. The major problems that turn off most ski enthusiasts in this country, namely traffic and crowded slopes, are generally not a problem in Hokkaido.

Yes, the horror stories about ski trips on Honshu (the Japanese mainland) are correct. It really can take eight hours on gridlocked "expressways" to reach destinations that are supposedly within easy reach of Tokyo and Osaka.

Japan's ski season generally runs from December to mid-April. Hokkaido's wide open spaces as well as its rugged, mountainous countryside easily makes it the one of the most enjoyable places to ski in Japan. The region's relatively low humidity and heavy, regular snowfall also provide skiers with the coveted "powder" snow at virtually every resort.

Undoubtedly, the easiest and most economical way to ski Hokkaido is to take a package tour. This is simple if you are Japanese or have a working knowledge of the language.

For the rest of us, there is Michel Mertens, president of Beltop Travel Service. Mertens' Tokyo-based company specializes in JAL Story ski packages modified for non-Japanese speakers. JAL Story is Japan Airlines' domestic tour subsidiary.

There are regular flights from Tokyo's Haneda Airport to New Chitose Airport, situated about 40 kilometers outside Sapporo. The flight takes about 1.5 hours. Many of the tours leave on Friday night and return Sunday evening, making them perfect for people who don't have vacation time but nonetheless want to briefly escape the concrete jungles of the city.

"All of the resorts in Hokkaido are very good," said Mertens. "Whether you are a beginner or a pro, there is something for everyone."

According to Mertens, the average wait at chair lifts is between one to four minutes in Hokkaido. Compare that with other areas of Japan, where it is not unusual to wait 30 minutes or more for a five-minute run.

In terms of skiing, each area has its own reputation. For example, Furano is famed for long runs and spectacular views, while Rusutsu is renowned for its wide-open spaces and is the recommended choice for groups and families. Many resorts also cater to "snowboarders." Snowboarding began about 11 years ago in Vermont. It can best be described as a combination of skateboarding and surfing, except done on snow.

Tours start at around 39,000 yen for three days and two nights. They generally include round-trip airfare, a bus ride to and from Sapporo's airport, breakfasts and accommodation. Considering the average plane ticket from Tokyo to Hokkaido alone exceeds 40,000 yen, this is an incredible value.

General information
Most resorts have rental facilities for ski equipment. Prices for skis, boots and poles range from 3,000 yen to 4,000 yen. Ski suits are about 3,000 yen.

Lift tickets average 4,500 yen.

Ski lessons: Rates vary, but are generally reasonable. Check each resort.

Package tours are the best value and the least hassle. Transportation to and from Sapporo's Chitose Airport is included, and this alone makes them worthwhile to non-Japanese speakers.

Recommended skiing
Teine Highland Ski Resort--Host to the 1972 Winter Olympic competitions, Teine Highland offers skiers 11.5 kilometers of trails and breathtaking mountain views on clear days.

About 30 minutes from downtown Sapporo by train or bus, this resort is ideal for budget skiers as room rates in Sapporo tend to be cheaper than at the major ski resorts. However, there is a moderately priced hotel at the base of the mountain.

Teine Highland offers eight runs with challenging courses for advanced skiers, including slalom runs for speed freaks. There are also about 100 instructors--30 who speak English--for beginners or skiers who want to hone their skills.

The resort's ski school is operated by the famed Yuichiro Miura, who in 1970 became the first--and so far the only--person to ski down Mt. Everest, the world's highest mountain.

Intermediate and advanced skiers can test their abilities on the 1,200-meter Panorama Course, which is also a favorite among snowboarders. Expert skiers with an attitude can take on Teine's toughest run: the 1,500-meter North Face (Kitakabe) Course. It takes a mixture of skill and guts to traverse this 38-degree slope. Some of the obstacles include tricky narrow spots, monster moguls and clusters of white birch.

The Nature Course and Paradise Gelande runs are better-suited for beginners and families.

According to Miura, Teine has some of the best powder in Hokkaido. It also has some of the best skiing. And he should know: Miura has skied down some of the highest mountains in the world, including Mt. Kilimanjaro and Mt. McKinley.

For his incredible run down Everest, Miura said he started at 8,220 meters--the summit is at 8,846 meters, or 8.8 kilometers above sea level--and hit speeds of 180 kph in the 2:45 minutes he screamed down the 45-degree face before activating the parachute that eventually brought him to a stop.

For more information about Teine Highland Ski Resort, call (011) 683-3721.

Niseko Annupuri
With the 1,898-meter Mt. Yotei looming like a Mt. Fuji clone in the background, Niseko Annupuri is home to four major resorts--all of which meet at the summit. Skiers with a single pass have access to three of them under a joint agreement among the operators.

Like most places in Hokkaido, the surroundings are beautiful. Situated about 70 kilometers southwest of Sapporo, the mountain has courses designed for beginners, intermediate and advanced skiers. It is also popular with snowboarders.

There are several runs riddled with moguls for skilled skiers, as well as gentle courses for the timid and beginners. The many hot springs in the area can ease even the stiffest muscles and there are several hotels and resorts to choose from.

However, those wishing to hit the slopes as soon as they wake up are recommended to stay at the Hotel Nikko Annupuri at the foot of the mountain. Call the Niseko Town Tourist Association at (0136) 44-2121 for more information.

Kiroro Ski World
Opened in 1992, this incredible resort--about 30 kilometers west of Sapporo--offers skiers some of the best powder in the region amid a backdrop of mountains on one side and a distant Sea of Japan on the other.

The slopes are divided into courses for beginners, intermediate and advanced skiers with a total of one gondola, four high-speed quads and four double-chair lifts.

The longest run is the Asari Panorama Course--about 15 minutes down wide slopes surrounded by birch, hickory, red pines and a variety of other trees.

Day passes cost 4,700 yen for adults and 3,800 yen for children. Recommended lodging: Hotel Piano. Owned by the resort's developers, Yamaha Corp., all of the hotel's 282 guest rooms are unusually spacious to accommodate the extra gear of skiers. Rooms range from 32,000 yen for a standard twin, to 150,000 yen for a the "Piano Suite." For more information on the hotel, call (0135) 34-7111. For general information on Kiroro, call the Akaigawa-mura Tourist Association at (0135) 34-6211.

Rusutsu
One of Japan's top ski areas, Rusutsu has something for everyone. It is also a mecca for snow boarding.

Nestled between three mountains, the ski grounds are about 1.5 hours by bus or car from Sapporo. There are 26 courses, ranging from the challenging 3,500-foot Isola Grand Trail--a straight shot down the face of Mt. Isola--to the relaxing Family Trail.

The resort's four gondolas, four high-speed quads and nine chair lifts can, incredibly, move 25,200 people per hour up the slopes.

Recommended lodging: Rusutsu Resort. The hotel's sprawling accommodations are impressive: 1,000 rooms; 11 restaurants; three reception areas; an amusement park; a shopping arcade; a swimming pool and spa area. A variety of rooms and suites are available depending on the size of your group. There are also log houses for skiers who may want to cut loose and make some noise or simply sit in front of their own fireplace with a glass or two of wine. The log "cabins" can sleep six, 12, 18 or 24 guests. For more information, call 0136-46-3111.

Beltop Travel Sevice can be contacted by phone at: (03) 3211-6555 or fax at: (03) 3211-3775.

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